Intro

On most jobs, mortar slows you down. Mixing, hauling, and cleaning eat time. A foam brick laying system that replaces mortar speeds things up and keeps sites cleaner. It uses adhesive foam beads instead of wet mortar. You get fast setup, straight courses, and less mess. In this guide, we explain what it is, where it works, and how to install it step by step. We also cover tools, costs, code checks, and common mistakes. If you’re curious but cautious, you’ll get clear answers here.

Quick Answer

A foam brick laying system that replaces mortar uses canister foam as the bonding layer between bricks or blocks. It sets in minutes, reaches handling strength in 30–60 minutes, and cures in about 24 hours. It cuts mixing time, reduces weight on scaffolds, and can double brick output on suitable walls.

Table of Contents

• Foam Brick Laying System That Replaces Mortar: What It Is
• Where the Foam Brick Laying System That Replaces Mortar Fits
• Step-by-Step: Install the Foam Brick Laying System That Replaces Mortar
• Tools, Materials, and Crew Setup
• Productivity, Cost, and Real-World Results
• Avoid These Mistakes + Close Out the Job

Key Takeaways

• Foam replaces mortar on specific wall types; check approvals first.
• Typical bead: 10–12 mm, 25–30 mm from edges; full cure ~24 hours.
• Faster work: many crews see 150–200 bricks/hour with 2 workers.
• Works best from +5°C to +35°C; dry, dust-free units are a must.
• Plan movement joints every 6–9 m and at returns, as usual.

Foam Brick Laying System That Replaces Mortar: What It Is

A foam brick laying system that replaces mortar uses polyurethane-based adhesive foam. You apply beads where you’d normally spread mortar. The foam expands slightly to fill small gaps, then sets fast. Final joint thickness often lands around 3–6 mm.

Why crews like it:

• No mixing, no water runs, less cleanup.
• Light cans instead of heavy mud buckets on scaffolds.
• Faster set lets you keep building without long waits.

Most systems come in 750–1000 ml cans with a gun. Many contractors report one can bonding 150–200 standard bricks, depending on bead size and weather. The working (reposition) time is often 5–8 minutes, with handling strength in 30–60 minutes.

Where the Foam Brick Laying System That Replaces Mortar Fits

A foam brick laying system that replaces mortar works best for:

• Brick veneer tied to a structural frame.
• Interior partitions and non-load-bearing masonry.
• Lightweight concrete blocks with tight tolerances.
• Repairs and small infills where mixing mortar is overkill.

Before you start, confirm approvals. Look for an evaluation report (ICC-ES, ETA, or local equivalent). Many foam systems are rated for veneer and partitions, not primary load-bearing walls. Always follow local building code, fire ratings, and weather exposure limits.

Environmental limits:

• Temperature: aim for +5°C to +35°C.
• Surface: dry and dust-free. Wipe off release agents.
• Wind/rain: shield fresh beads from water and debris for the first 30–60 minutes.

Movement and ties:

• Keep expansion/movement joints every 6–9 m and at corners.
• Use proper wall ties, anchors, or reinforcement, same as with mortar.

Step-by-Step: Install the Foam Brick Laying System That Replaces Mortar

Follow these steps to get straight, strong, clean work. This is the core method for a foam brick laying system that replaces mortar.

1. Check Substrate and Layout

   • Confirm plumb, level, and line. Mark your bond pattern.
   • Dry-fit the first 3–4 bricks to confirm reveals and tie locations.

2. Prep Bricks/Blocks

   • Surfaces must be clean, dry, and dust-free.
   • Brush each unit. Lightly mist only if manufacturer allows (many don’t).

3. Shake the Can

   • Shake for 20–30 seconds. The foam must be well mixed.
   • Mount the can on the gun. Adjust flow to a steady bead.

4. Apply Beads

   • Run a 10–12 mm bead, 25–30 mm from unit edges.
   • For wider units, add a second parallel bead 30–40 mm apart.

5. Set the First Course

   • Place units firmly. Don’t slide back and forth.
   • Tap to line using a rubber mallet and a level.

6. Check Joints and Ties

   • Final joint thickness should be about 3–6 mm after compression.
   • Install wall ties/anchors at the specified spacing.

7. Build Up in Lifts

   • Keep within safe lift heights; 1.2–1.5 m per day is common.
   • Re-check plumb and line every 3–4 courses.

8. Manage Working Time

• Trim squeezed-out foam with a knife after it skins.
• Seal movement joints and install flashings as usual.

Tools, Materials, and Crew Setup

What you need:

• Foam cans (plan extras; better to have 2–3 spare on hand).
• Foam gun with adjustable flow and cleaner.
• Brushes, level, string line, mallet, shims/spacers.
• Ties/anchors, flashings, backer rod, sealant.

Crew tips:

• Two-person crew runs fast: one applies beads, one places units.
• Stage pallets within 1–2 m of the work line to cut walking.
• Keep a spare gun ready. If a gun clogs, swap in 10–15 seconds.

Material storage:

• Store cans upright. Keep between +10°C and +25°C when possible.
• Cold cans reduce yield. Warm them in a heated box (not open flame).

Productivity, Cost, and Real-World Results

Many contractors find the foam brick laying system that replaces mortar boosts production. No mixing. No wheelbarrow runs. Less cleanup. Here’s what’s common on site:

• Output: 150–200 bricks/hour with 2 workers, once dialled in. Traditional mortar often lands around 60–100 bricks/hour.
• Set time: 30–60 minutes to handling strength; full cure ~24 hours.
• Waste: Minimal. A steady 10–12 mm bead controls= consumption.

Cost view:

• Material cost per square metre can be similar to mortar when you count labour savings.
• Fewer tools to clean, and less water/electricity use.
• You save 30–60 minutes daily just skipping mortar setup and cleanup.

Schedule impacts:

• Faster close-in. You can follow with flashings and sealant the same day.
• Smaller crew can handle medium walls without pace drops.

Avoid These Mistakes + Close Out the Job

Common mistakes with a foam brick laying system that replaces mortar:

• Over-beading. Too much foam causes squeeze-out and mess. Stick to 10–12 mm.
• Wet or dusty units. Foam won’t bond right. Clean and dry every time.
• Rushing in cold. Below +5°C, cure slows and strength suffers.
• Ignoring movement joints. Keep 6–9 m spacing and at returns.
• Skipping ties. Veneer still needs proper anchorage.

Close-out checks:

• Confirm straight, plumb, level with a long level or laser.
• Trim any squeeze-out. Seal joints cleanly.
• Document the system used, cure time, and any weather protection.

Helpful admin links to add on your site:

• Professional proposals with clear scope and inclusions.
• Project timelines that show cure windows and weather buffers.
• Invoice templates that reflect unit rates and foam can counts.

When you’re ready to bid this method, tools like Donizo help you capture site photos and notes, generate branded proposals, collect e-signatures, and convert accepted work into invoices fast. Fewer callbacks, faster approvals.

FAQ

Is a foam brick laying system that replaces mortar as strong as mortar?

For approved uses like veneer and non-load-bearing walls, it provides reliable bond strength when installed correctly. Follow the manufacturer’s report and local code. For primary load-bearing masonry, many regions still require traditional mortar or engineered design.

Can I use it in winter?

You can, but stay above +5°C for best results. Cold slows cure and reduces yield. Warm the cans to +10°C to +25°C, protect fresh beads for 30–60 minutes, and avoid setting units on frosted or wet surfaces.

How thick are the joints with foam?

Final joints usually land around 3–6 mm once the foam compresses. Run a 10–12 mm bead set 25–30 mm from edges. Don’t over-apply. Too much bead leads to squeeze-out and extra trimming.

How fast can I build up the wall?

You often get handling strength in 30–60 minutes, with a 5–8 minute adjustment window. Many crews cap daily lift height at 1.2–1.5 m to keep everything aligned and safe. Follow the system’s guidance and your engineer’s notes.

Will it stick to dusty or sealed bricks?

Not well. Dust, moisture, and release agents kill adhesion. Brush units clean, keep them dry, and test bond on suspect surfaces. If there’s a seal, scuff it or switch to acceptable units.

Conclusion

A foam brick laying system that replaces mortar speeds work, cuts mess, and delivers clean, straight courses when used on the right walls. Start simple: confirm approvals, control bead size, and protect early cure. Next steps: 1) Trial it on a small partition. 2) Track bead size, cure time, and output. 3) Update your proposal template to explain the method and warranty. For faster approvals and clean paperwork, platforms such as Donizo help you create proposals, get e-signatures, and invoice in one flow. Try it on your next veneer job and judge the results.