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Home Inspection Checklist for Contractors
A practical home inspection guide for contractors. See what inspectors flag, key measurements, and a step-by-step checklist to cut rework and win trust.
Intro
Home inspection can make or break a sale. As a contractor, you often get called after the report drops. Or better yet, before it does. This guide explains what a home inspection covers, why items get flagged, and how to prep a property so it passes cleanly. You’ll get a simple checklist, key measurements, and timelines that prevent call-backs. We’ll also show how to turn inspection notes into clear, signed work.
Quick Answer
A home inspection is a visual check of a home’s major systems to spot safety issues and defects before a sale. Inspectors look at roof, structure, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, and interiors. If you prep access, fix small items first, and document work, you cut surprises and speed acceptance.
A home inspection is a non-invasive, visual assessment. No opening walls. No permits. Inspectors check structure, roof, electrical, plumbing, HVAC, insulation, and interiors. They also test basic safety devices and sample outlets, windows, and fixtures.
Most home inspection visits last 2–4 hours on an average 1,500–2,500 sq ft home. The report usually includes photos, notes, and ratings like “major,” “safety,” or “maintenance.” Remember, inspectors don’t enforce code. But they use common building standards and safety practices to flag risk. If you know what they flag, you can fix small items fast and calm buyers.
Common flags:
Missing GFCIs near water (within 1.5 m of sinks is common).
Loose handrails or guards with gaps over 100 mm.
Roof drainage dumping by the foundation.
Active leaks or failed caulking in wet zones.
Old or missing smoke/CO alarms.
Pre-Inspection Prep That Cuts Issues by Half
Do this the day before the home inspection. It takes 60–90 minutes and prevents half the usual notes.
Clear access: panel, furnace, water heater, attic hatch, crawlspace. Leave at least 600 mm in front of service panels and equipment.
Turn on pilot lights and energize breakers safely. Label any tripped breakers.
Test GFCI and AFCI devices. Replace failed GFCIs near kitchens, baths, garage, and outdoors. Within 1.5 m of sinks is a common rule.
Swap dead bulbs. Inspectors call out “fixture inoperable” if a light won’t turn on.
Fix small leaks: P-traps, supply lines, and toilets. Hand-tighten, re-seal, or replace washers. This is a 15–30 minute win.
Caulk tubs, showers, and backsplashes. Use mildew-resistant silicone. Let cure 24 hours.
Extend downspouts to discharge at least 1.8 m from the foundation, where practical.
Replace HVAC filters. Note last service date. Annual service (every 12 months) is common.
Test smoke and CO alarms. Replace units older than 10 years and dead batteries now.
Tighten loose handrails. Check height roughly 865–965 mm; keep baluster gaps under 100 mm.
Tip: Take 10 photos of before/after fixes. It helps if items still appear on the report.
Room-by-Room Home Inspection Checklist
Use this list on most jobs. It’s fast and it works.
Exterior and Site
Grade slopes away from the house. In general, aim for a steady fall for 1.8–3 m.
Downspouts extend 1.8 m where possible. Add splash blocks if space is tight.
No exposed wood to soil. Replace rotted trim or add proper flashing.
Seal gaps at siding, vents, and around windows/doors.
Roof and Attic
No missing shingles, active leaks, or soft decking. Repair flashing at chimneys and walls.
Attic ventilation must be clear. Keep soffit vents open; don’t vent bath fans into the attic.
Insulation is even and dry. Top up compressed batts as needed.
Electrical
Panels have clear labeling and covers. No open knock-outs.
GFCIs present where required. Within 1.5 m of sinks is common in kitchens and baths.
AFCI protection in many living spaces is common under modern rules.
No open splices. All connections in boxes with covers.
Three-prong outlets test as grounded. Replace damaged receptacles and plates.
Plumbing
Static water pressure is reasonable. In general, 40–60 psi (about 275–415 kPa) works well.
No active leaks at valves, traps, or shutoffs. Replace braided lines if frayed.
Water heater: secure, with a temperature/pressure relief valve. Discharge line is same diameter and terminates roughly 150–300 mm above floor.
Caulking and grout intact at wet areas. Replace cracked grout and re-seal.
HVAC
Furnace/boiler operates with normal sounds. Record last service date (target every 12 months).
A common cooling temperature split is about 8–12°C at supply vs. return, but this varies by system and conditions.
Doors latch, don’t rub, and have smooth swing. Adjust hinges and strikes.
Windows open/lock. Replace broken sash cords and failed latches.
Stains on ceilings? Check above for leaks. Fix source, then seal and repaint.
Floors are flat and transitions safe.
Stairs, Decks, and Railings
Handrails continuous and graspable. Typical height is 865–965 mm measured from the stair nosings.
Guard opening is under 100 mm where guards are required.
Deck guards are commonly 900–1,070 mm high, depending on deck height and local rules.
Tighten posts and add proper brackets as needed.
Note: Codes vary by province and municipality. The dimensions above are common targets. Always confirm local requirements.
This pairs well with understanding [project timelines] so you schedule fixes before closing. If you’re also looking to streamline [professional proposals], our guide covers clear scopes and fast approvals.
Safety Systems Inspectors Flag
Safety items get top priority. They often decide the deal.
Smoke alarms: In most provinces, alarms are required on every storey and near sleeping areas. Many regions require them in bedrooms too. Test monthly. Replace units at 10 years.
CO alarms: Install where there’s a fuel-burning appliance or an attached garage. Replace old units per manufacturer instructions (often 7–10 years).
GFCI and AFCI protection: Add or swap devices to meet common safety practices. Test before the visit.
Handrails and guards: Secure, proper height, and safe spacing (commonly under 100 mm openings).
Egress and exits: Bedroom windows that open, no blocked exits, and clear pathways.
Tip: Put fresh batteries in every alarm. It costs a few dollars and prevents an avoidable note.
After the Home Inspection: Reports and Repairs
When the report lands, act fast and stay calm. Here’s a clean workflow that saves time and wins trust.
Sort items by risk: safety first, then water, then structure, then routine.
Set timelines: safety in 0–48 hours, water within 72 hours, structural 1–2 weeks, maintenance as agreed.
Write a clear scope with photos. Itemize parts and labour. Keep it simple.
Get signed approval before work. This avoids scope creep.
Do the work, then provide a brief completion note with photos.
Turning notes into signed work is easier with tools like Donizo. You can capture issues with voice, text, and photos, generate a branded proposal, send it for e‑signature, and convert it to an invoice in one click. For contractors dealing with change orders, we also recommend solid [invoice templates] and clear [pricing strategies] to prevent disputes.
FAQ
How long does a home inspection take?
Most inspections take 2–4 hours for a typical 1,500–2,500 sq ft home. Larger or older homes can take longer. Limited access or weather can also add time.
Do inspectors enforce building code?
No. Inspectors don’t enforce code. They perform a visual safety and condition review. They often reference common standards. Building officials handle permits and code compliance.
What should I fix before the home inspection?
Focus on safety and water. Install or replace GFCIs near sinks, test smoke/CO alarms, fix small leaks, recaulk wet areas, tighten handrails, extend downspouts, and replace filters and dead bulbs. These quick wins reduce most easy flags.
Can a contractor attend the home inspection?
Often yes, with the owner or agent’s permission. Be professional. Don’t argue on site. Take notes, ask where they want access, and offer to price solutions after the visit.
Are there Canadian-specific measurements I should know?
Common targets include handrail height around 865–965 mm, guard openings under 100 mm, GFCIs within 1.5 m of sinks, and downspout discharge about 1.8 m from the foundation. Always verify local rules.
Conclusion
A clean home inspection comes from simple prep, fast safety fixes, and clear documentation. Prioritize GFCIs, alarms, railings, leaks, and drainage. Then communicate scope and timelines in writing. Next steps: 1) Run the 60–90 minute pre-check above. 2) Photograph before/after. 3) Turn punch lists into signed work using platforms such as Donizo for proposals, e‑signatures, and invoicing. Do this, and you’ll cut rework and build buyer confidence on every job.
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