Intro

On most jobs, the client says it early: Not on the face please. They don’t want nails or screws showing on siding, trim, decks, or roofs. They’re right. Face fasteners look rough. They also invite leaks and stains. This guide explains what Not on the face please means, why it matters, and how to do it. You’ll see simple methods for hidden fastening, clear spacing rules, and patch fixes when someone slips. Keep it clean. Keep it sealed. Keep the callback count low.

Quick Answer

Not on the face please means avoid visible fasteners on finished faces. Use hidden methods like blind nailing, clips, biscuits, pocket screws, or adhesive. If you must face fasten, pre-drill, countersink 1–2 mm, seal the hole, and patch. Leave 3–5 mm gaps where materials move.

Key Takeaways

• Hidden fastening protects looks and reduces leak paths.
• Leave 3–5 mm expansion gaps; fastener edge distance 12–19 mm.
• Aim for 32 mm (1-1/4 in) penetration into framing when possible.
• Pre-drill 85–90% of shank size near edges to prevent splits.
• Write the rule in your proposal to avoid disputes later.

Table of Contents

• Why "Not on the Face Please" Matters
• When "Not on the Face Please" Isn’t Possible
• Hidden Fastening Methods by Material
• Layout, Spacing, and Penetrations
• Patching and Blending Mistakes
• Put It in Writing

Why "Not on the Face Please" Matters

Clients say Not on the face please for two reasons: looks and water. Visible fasteners break the line of a clean wall. Holes and heads also pull water and dirt. Freeze-thaw and UV make that worse.

• Clean face = higher perceived quality.
• Fewer holes = fewer leaks and stains.
• Hidden fastening reduces wood splits and paint failures by keeping edges intact.

On siding, each face hole is a drip point. On decking, face screws collect grime. On roofing, face nailing outside the nailing zone is a leak. So, Not on the face please is more than style. It’s durability.

When "Not on the Face Please" Isn’t Possible

Sometimes you can’t avoid it. Small returns, tight corners, repair tie-ins, or code zones force a face fastener. When that happens, do it right.

1. Pre-drill: 85–90% of shank size, especially within 25 mm of an edge.
2. Countersink: 1–2 mm below the face. Use a stop collar.
3. Seal: Prime the hole. Add a bead of sealant (6–8 mm) if exterior.
4. Fasten: Use stainless #8 or 8d ring-shank in wet areas.
5. Patch: Fill, sand, spot-prime, then finish coat.
6. Document: Note the location. Tell the client why it was needed.

Tip: Keep 12–19 mm edge distance on wood. Under 12 mm, expect splits.

Hidden Fastening Methods by Material

Not on the face please is easier when you match the method to the material.

Siding (Fibre Cement, Wood, Engineered)

• Blind nailing: Place nails high under the lap. Standard is 19–25 mm down from the top edge. Keep 16 in (406 mm) stud spacing unless the product says otherwise.
• Ring-shank or siding nails: 6d–8d, stainless or hot-dip galvanized.
• Expansion gaps: 3–5 mm at butt joints. Flash behind joints. Caulk is last resort.

How-to (Siding):

1. Snap a level line.
2. Tack the first course with a starter strip.
3. Blind nail each course at the lift line.
4. Stagger butt joints at least 406 mm.
5. Flash behind joints 100 mm wide.

Decking (Composite, PVC, Wood)

• Hidden clip systems: Match clips to board brand. Leave 3–5 mm between boards. Many clips auto-space.
• Biscuit slots: For hardwoods, cut biscuits at joists. Use stainless screws through biscuits.
• Screw-and-plug kits: If you must top-screw, use a plug kit for a near-invisible face.

Numbers that matter:

• Joist spacing: 16 in (406 mm) O.C. for composite unless rated for 24 in (610 mm).
• Screw length: 64–76 mm for 32 mm boards to get 32 mm embedment.
• Slope: 1:40 (2.5%) away from the house to shed water.

Trim and Millwork

• Pocket screws: Hide fasteners on the back. Use #8 coarse. Clamp tight.
• Construction adhesive: A continuous 6–8 mm bead reduces nails. Press, pin with 23-gauge pins.
• Back-priming: Seal all faces before install, especially cut ends.

Workflow:

1. Dry fit the piece.
2. Adhesive on the back, 6–8 mm bead.
3. Pin at 300–400 mm to hold while curing.
4. Caulk tiny seams, not joints that need to move.

Roofing (Shingles)

• Nail in the manufacturer’s nailing zone only. Outside that zone is face nailing and voids warranties.
• Use 4 nails per shingle minimum; 6 nails in high-wind zones.
• Keep nails 25 mm from ends. Nails must not be visible after the next course.

Drywall and Plasterboard

• Screws belong in the field and edges, then covered with mud. That’s a hidden fastener after finishing.
• Screw spacing: 300 mm at edges, 400 mm in field.
• Don’t break the face paper. Set the head just below flush.

Layout, Spacing, and Penetrations

Not on the face please depends on planning. Good layout hides fasteners and avoids patching.

• Find studs/joists first. Mark lines at 400 mm or 406 mm centres.
• Leave 3–5 mm gaps for expansion at butt joints. Use joint flashing 100–150 mm wide.
• Keep 12–19 mm from edges when nailing or screwing near a reveal.
• Penetrations (vents, lights):
  1. Cut tight to a trim ring.
  2. Use backer flashing 150 mm up, 100 mm each side.
  3. Caulk outer ring only, not the weep path.
• Adhesive cure: Give 24 hours before heavy load. Clamp or pin every 300–400 mm.

Pro move: Angle hidden nails 10–15° into thicker backing. The head bites, the face stays clean.

If you’re also looking to streamline professional proposals, our guide on professional proposals pairs well with this section. Clear drawings and notes reduce on-site guesswork.

Patching and Blending Mistakes

Someone ignored Not on the face please? Fix it so it disappears.

1. Pull or recess the fastener. Don’t pry and crush fibres.
2. For wood/exterior trim: Fill with a two-part epoxy filler. It sands in 30–45 minutes.
3. For painted interior: Use setting compound (20- or 45-minute). Feather 100–125 mm each side.
4. Prime the patch. Oil primer blocks tannin on exterior wood.
5. Paint two finish coats. Sheen must match.

Colour match tip: Always save a half-litre of the job’s finish paint. Label it by room or elevation.

Put It in Writing

Not on the face please should live in your paperwork, not just talk. This avoids disputes. It also protects your margin.

• Scope notes: “No face fasteners on visible faces unless required by code or manufacturer. Contractor will use blind nailing, clips, adhesive, or plugs as appropriate.”
• Exceptions: List corners, tie-ins, repair zones, or wind zones that may need visible fasteners.
• Approval: If a face fastener is required, snap a photo and note it.

Tools like Donizo help here. You can speak the site notes with Voice to Proposal, send a branded proposal, and get e-signature on the clause. After acceptance, convert to an invoice in one click when that section is done.

If you need help pricing time for careful fastening, see our advice on pricing strategies. It pairs well with managing project timelines, so your crew has the minutes to do it right.

FAQ

What does "Not on the face please" mean on site?

It means no visible fasteners on the finished face. Use hidden methods like blind nailing, clips, adhesive, or pocket screws. If you must face fasten, countersink, seal, and patch.

When is face fastening acceptable?

Only when the manufacturer or code requires it, or when there’s no hidden option. Examples: tight returns, repair tie-ins, or roofing outside the nailing zone during a repair. Document the reason and patch cleanly where possible.

How far from an edge should I place a fastener?

Keep 12–19 mm from a wood edge. Go closer and you risk splits. For siding, follow the brand guide, often 19–25 mm down from the top edge for blind nailing.

What size gap should I leave between boards?

Leave 3–5 mm for typical exterior boards and siding joints. Composites may call for fixed gaps. Check the brand. Always flash butt joints instead of filling them with caulk.

How deep should fasteners penetrate framing?

Aim for 32 mm (1-1/4 in) embedment when you can. That gives strong hold without over-penetrating thin members.

Conclusion

Not on the face please protects looks and stops leaks. Plan your layout, choose hidden fastening that fits the material, and write the rule into your scope. When you can’t avoid a face fastener, pre-drill, countersink 1–2 mm, seal, and patch. To lock this into your paperwork, use a platform such as Donizo to capture notes, send proposals, and collect e-signatures fast.

Next steps:

• Walk your current job and mark where hidden methods apply.
• Update your proposal template with a face-fastener clause.
• Stock epoxy filler, plugs, and stainless #8s for clean fixes.

By following these steps, you’ll deliver cleaner lines and fewer callbacks—every time.