Intro
Clients ask for The Porsche Floor when they want a glossy, showroom-grade garage or shop floor. They expect high shine, tight lines, and no tire marks. In short, a premium resin finish that looks like a dealership. This guide explains what The Porsche Floor is, why it works, and how to build it. You’ll get clear specs, simple steps, and real timelines. Use this as your jobsite playbook. It covers prep, moisture, thickness, and topcoat choices so you can install The Porsche Floor with confidence.
Quick Answer
The Porsche Floor is a resin system that delivers a high-gloss, showroom look with strong chemical and tire-mark resistance. It’s usually a primed, high-build epoxy body coat (35–50 mil total) topped with a UV-stable urethane or polyaspartic (7–10 mil). Proper grinding (CSP 2–3), moisture control, and a slip-resistant topcoat are critical.
Table of Contents
Key Takeaways
- Grind to CSP 2–3 and keep slab moisture within spec (commonly ≤75–85% RH).
- Build 35–50 mil total: primer + body + 7–10 mil UV-stable topcoat.
- Typical cure: 12–24 hours walk, 48–72 hours vehicle, 5–7 days full.
- A 2–3 person crew can complete a 40–50 m² garage in 2–3 days.
- Add fine grit for slip resistance, especially near doors and drains.
What Is The Porsche Floor?
Clients use The Porsche Floor to describe a clean, reflective, dealership-style finish. It’s not one brand or one product. It’s a system. Most crews get there with a 100% solids epoxy primer and body coat, then a UV-stable urethane or polyaspartic topcoat. The look is slick, but the performance matters more: chemical resistance, no hot-tire pickup, and controlled slip.
You’ll see The Porsche Floor in garages, showrooms, and premium workshops. Light grey is common because it hides dust and shows the car. Solid colour is usual. Flake or quartz can be added if the client wants texture or pattern.
Specs That Make The Porsche Floor Shine
Surface Prep First
- Grind to CSP 2–3. An 80–100 grit diamond profile works well on most slabs.
- Degrease and rinse oil spots. Silicones and oils cause fisheyes.
- Moisture: In general, many specs call for ≤75–85% in-slab RH or ≤3–5 lbs/1000 ft²/24h MVER. If higher, use a moisture mitigation epoxy.
- Temperature and humidity: Apply between 10–30°C. Keep substrate at least 3°C above dew point. Aim for RH under 85% during install.
System Build (Typical)
- Primer: 100% solids epoxy at 4–6 m²/L (160–250 ft²/gal).
- Body coat: High-build epoxy at ~1.0–1.5 L/m² to reach 20–30 mil.
- Total build after topcoat: 35–50 mil (about 0.9–1.3 mm).
- Topcoat: Aliphatic urethane or polyaspartic at 7–10 mil. This keeps gloss and adds UV stability.
Colour And Texture
- Colours: Light grey (think RAL 7035/7040 range) looks premium and practical.
- Texture: Add 60–80 mesh grit or microbeads to the topcoat in doorways, wet areas, and ramps. Test a small sample so the client accepts the feel.
Joints And Cracks
- Movement joints must be honoured. Recut if needed after cure.
- Static cracks: Chase to about 6 mm wide x 12 mm deep, then fill with low-viscosity epoxy or epoxy paste.
- Sawcuts: Fill with semi-rigid polyurea after coating or leave open per design.
Step-By-Step: Install The Porsche Floor
- Inspect And Test
- Map cracks, oil, and soft spots. Do a moisture test (in-situ RH or calcium chloride). Note repair items in your quote.
- Protect And Mask
- Mask walls, doors, and drains. Remove base if needed. Aim for clean, straight edges.
- Grind And Vacuum
- Diamond grind to CSP 2–3. Edge grind along walls. Use a HEPA vac and keep dust down. Clean twice.
- Repair The Slab
- Chase and fill cracks (about 6 mm x 12 mm). Patch divots and pop-outs. Feather repairs smooth.
- Prime
- Mix accurately. Watch pot life (often 15–30 minutes at ~21°C). Roll or squeegee-and-backroll primer at 4–6 m²/L. Let it tack off per spec (commonly 6–12 hours).
- Moisture Mitigation (If Needed)
- If RH or MVER is high, install an epoxy moisture barrier. Follow spread rate closely. Allow the full cure window.
- Body Coat
- Apply high-build epoxy at ~1.0–1.5 L/m². Use an 18–24 inch squeegee, then backroll in two directions. Check film thickness with a wet mil gauge.
- Optional Broadcast
- For texture or hiding, broadcast vinyl flakes until refusal, then scrape and vacuum after cure. For quartz, follow the manufacturer’s loading rate.
- Topcoat (Gloss + UV + Grip)
- Roll aliphatic urethane or polyaspartic at 7–10 mil. Add fine grit where needed. Keep a wet edge. Typical recoat window is 12–18 hours if doing two topcoats.
- Cure And Turnover
- Light foot traffic: 12–24 hours. Vehicle traffic: 48–72 hours. Full cure: 5–7 days. Reopen or refill joints as planned. Walk the client through care.
Cost, Time, And Crew Setup
- Crew: A 2–3 person crew is ideal. One runs the mix station. One pulls product with a squeegee. One backrolls and watches edges.
- Time: A 40–50 m² two-car garage usually takes 2–3 days, including cure between coats.
- Tools: 250–300 mm grinder, high-CFM HEPA vac (~300 CFM class), 18–24 inch squeegee, spike shoes (~25 mm), wet mil gauge, and fans for airflow.
- Pricing: In general, many contractors price showpiece systems around $45–$85 CAD/m² depending on repairs, moisture barrier needs, and topcoat choice. Always confirm product coverage and local costs.
If you’re working on pricing strategy, this pairs well with understanding markups and margins. If you also need help presenting scope options, see related reading on professional proposals and invoice templates that save time.
Common Mistakes And How To Avoid Them
- Moisture Pushback
- Problem: Blisters or bond loss when RH is too high.
- Fix: Test first. If RH >75–85% (per product), use a moisture barrier epoxy.
- Fisheyes And Craters
- Problem: Contamination from oils or silicones.
- Fix: Aggressive degrease, rinse well, and re-grind the spot. Use a fisheye eliminator only if the manufacturer allows it.
- Roller Lines And Dull Patches
- Problem: Coating too thin or curing too fast.
- Fix: Hit 7–10 mil on the topcoat. Maintain a wet edge. Work in 3–4 metre lanes.
- Amine Blush (Epoxy)
- Problem: Waxy film in cool, humid air.
- Fix: Wash with warm water and a Scotch-Brite pad. Let dry. Lightly abrade before topcoating.
- Slippery When Wet
- Problem: No texture in doorways or wash bays.
- Fix: Add 60–80 mesh grit or microbeads in those zones. Show the client a sample first.
Selling The Porsche Floor To Clients
- Set Clear Expectations
- The Porsche Floor needs proper prep, a moisture plan, and a UV-stable topcoat. Explain why that matters. Show a 300 × 300 mm sample board with and without grit.
- Spell Out The Scope
- List: grinding, repairs, moisture barrier (if needed), primer, body coat, topcoat, and joints. Include cure times: 12–24 hours walk, 48–72 hours vehicle, 5–7 days full.
- Warranty And Care
- Use pH-neutral cleaners. Avoid parking hot, dripping tires in the first 72 hours. Recoat topcoat as needed in 3–5 years for heavy use.
- Faster Proposals And Approvals
- Many contractors capture site notes by phone, then forget details. Tools like Donizo let you go from voice notes and photos to a clean proposal, send it as a branded PDF, and get e-signature approval. Convert to invoice in one click when done.
Related reading ideas for internal links:
- professional proposals
- managing change orders
- project timelines
- invoice templates that save time
FAQ
What does a client mean by “The Porsche Floor”?
They mean a glossy, dealership-style resin floor that looks premium and stays clean. It’s usually a primed, high-build epoxy body coat with a UV-stable urethane or polyaspartic topcoat. The goal is strong shine, chemical resistance, and no hot-tire pickup.
Epoxy, polyaspartic, or polyurethane cement—what’s best?
For The Porsche Floor look, most use epoxy for build and bonding, then a UV-stable urethane or polyaspartic for gloss and durability. Polyurethane cement is great for heavy thermal shock, but it has a more industrial look. Pick by appearance, traffic, and temperature swings.
How long before I can drive on The Porsche Floor?
Commonly, 48–72 hours for vehicle traffic, depending on product and temperature. Light foot traffic is often fine at 12–24 hours. Full chemical cure is usually 5–7 days. Always check the manufacturer’s data sheet and local conditions.
How do I prevent hot-tire pickup?
Prep right, control moisture, and let the body coat and topcoat fully cure. Use a UV-stable, high-quality topcoat at the right film thickness (7–10 mil). Tell clients to avoid tight turns and hard braking on day 2–3.
Can I put The Porsche Floor over tile or an old coating?
Yes, if the substrate is sound. Mechanically abrade to a uniform profile, clean thoroughly, and address moisture. Remove loose tiles or weak coatings. Patch and level as needed. Do a bond test if unsure.
Conclusion
The Porsche Floor is a system, not a single product. Grind to CSP 2–3, manage moisture, build to 35–50 mil, and finish with a UV-stable 7–10 mil topcoat. To move fast and stay clear with clients: 1) make sample boards, 2) write a simple spec sheet, 3) follow a job checklist. Platforms such as Donizo help you capture site details, send branded proposals with e-signatures, and invoice cleanly. Build it right, and your floor will look like a showroom and wear like a shop.
