Intro
On most jobs, mixing mortar eats time and space. Buckets, water, clean-up, and slow cure all add up. A foam brick laying system that replaces mortar changes that flow. It uses polyurethane foam adhesive in thin joints to bond bricks or blocks fast. You get quicker lifts, less mess, and tighter control. In this guide, we explain what the system is, when to use it, and how to install it right. You’ll get exact steps, common mistakes, and practical tips to keep your walls straight and strong. We’ll also cover code checks, weather limits, and simple QA that saves rework.
Quick Answer
A foam brick laying system that replaces mortar uses PU foam adhesive instead of wet mortar to bond masonry units. It speeds installation, reduces clean-up, and cures within 24 hours in many cases. Use it for non-structural walls and some engineered systems, following the manufacturer’s instructions and local code approvals.
Table of Contents
Key Takeaways
- Expect faster lifts. Many crews gain 20–40% daily output.
- Typical bead width is 10–12 mm; joint thickness runs 2–3 mm.
- Working time is short: 3–5 minutes. Plan your layout and pace.
- Most products cure in 24 hours; full loads after 24–48 hours.
- Ambient temp matters. Common use range is 5–35°C with dry substrates.
How the Foam Brick Laying System That Replaces Mortar Works
Foam masonry adhesive is a one-component polyurethane (PU) foam. It dispenses from a pressurised can through a gun. The foam expands slightly, wets the brick faces, and cures with moisture in the air.
You lay thin, even beads on the brick bed. Press the next course into place. The adhesive bonds the units, not the gaps. This means your joints are smaller than traditional mortar. It also means alignment is critical. You control lines with gauges, shims, and a stringline.
Most systems work with clay brick, concrete brick, and some lightweight blocks. Always check the manufacturer’s list. Some foams are rated for veneers and partitions. Others are engineered for structural use with tested details. Follow those approvals. When in doubt, get an engineer’s note and check local code.
Typical numbers contractors report:
- Bead width: 10–12 mm
- Joint thickness: 2–3 mm
- Open time: 3–5 minutes
- Adjustment window: 2–3 minutes
- Initial set: 15–30 minutes
- Cure: about 24 hours
You don’t need a mixer or hose. You do need consistency and clean work.
Essential tools and materials:
- Foam gun and cleaner
- PU foam cans (check batch dates)
- Spacers/shims: 2–3 mm
- Level, gauge rod, stringline, and tape
- Soft brush and damp sprayer (light mist helps curing)
- Cut-off saw or brick hammer
- PPE: gloves, safety glasses, and mask
Site prep steps:
- Substrate must be clean, dry, and level within 2–3 mm over 2 m.
- Snap control lines and mark door/window openings.
- Pre-stage bricks within arm’s reach for each lift.
- Keep cans warm: 18–25°C gives consistent flow.
- Check the weather. Most foams need 5–35°C and no rain on fresh joints.
Tip: Capture site photos and notes before you start. Tools like Donizo let you record scope by voice, attach images, and generate a clean proposal the same day. This helps when clients ask how the foam system works and what’s included.
Installing the Foam Brick Laying System That Replaces Mortar: Steps
Follow a steady rhythm. The foam brick laying system that replaces mortar rewards planning and speed.
- Shake the can for 20–30 seconds. Screw it onto the gun snugly.
- Prime the gun with a small test bead onto scrap. Adjust flow.
- Lightly mist the brick bed if air is very dry. Don’t soak it.
- Run two parallel beads, each 10–12 mm, near the brick edges.
- Set the brick. Press evenly to reach a 2–3 mm joint. Don’t crush it.
- Check alignment with your stringline and gauge rod every 3–4 bricks.
- For the next course, brush dust off the surface. Repeat beads.
- Keep your pace. Open time is 3–5 minutes, depending on temperature.
- Use spacers at openings and ends to hold tight joints.
- Re-mist lightly if conditions are bone dry or wind is high.
- Strike or trim any squeeze-out after 10–15 minutes, once tacky.
- Leave the wall undisturbed for initial set, usually 15–30 minutes.
Timeframes to plan around:
- Drill anchors or hang cabinets after 24–48 hours.
- Full cure typically by 24 hours, longer in cold.
- Clean the gun with cleaner immediately after the last bead.
H4: Lintels and Ties
- Use approved mechanical lintels; don’t rely on foam for bearing.
- Install veneer ties or straps per the manufacturer and code.
- Maintain weep paths; don’t block cavities with excess foam.
The foam brick laying system that replaces mortar can deliver strong bonds and clean joints. Shear and tensile values vary by brand. Always review the product data sheet. Many systems are accepted for interior partitions, veneers, and non-load-bearing walls. Some have engineered assemblies for structural walls. In those cases, follow the exact details.
Key checks:
- Structural: Get engineering if the wall carries load or lateral forces.
- Fire: Use products with rated assemblies where fire separation is required.
- Moisture: Protect exterior work from standing water during curing.
- Freeze-thaw: Follow winter guides; many systems slow down below 5°C.
- Out-of-plane: Use ties, clips, and control joints as specified.
In Canada, look for CCMC evaluations or equivalent reports. Elsewhere, look for ESR or national approvals. Keep printed data sheets on site. Inspectors appreciate clear documentation.
Costs, Productivity, and When to Choose It
Crews often see faster daily output because there’s no mixing or washing. You also reduce staging space and water use. Material cost per square metre can be similar to mortar, depending on the wall type and the number of cans used. Labour savings usually tilt the math in your favour.
Where it shines:
- Interior partitions and corridor walls
- Veneer backing where ties carry loads
- Tight sites with limited water or power
- Small jobs where set-up time kills your margin
Where to pause:
- High-heat zones (near solid-fuel appliances) unless rated
- Constant wet areas without proper protection
- Heavy, fully structural masonry without specific approval
Estimating tip: Track bead length per can. Many contractors report 8–12 m of usable bead per can at 10–12 mm width. Your real number depends on temperature, technique, and substrate. For clean scope notes and quick approvals, send a branded proposal and collect a digital signature. Platforms such as Donizo make it easy to send a PDF proposal, get an e-signature, and convert it to an invoice in one click when the job is accepted.
If you’re also looking to streamline professional proposals, see our guide on professional proposals. This pairs well with understanding project timelines. For contractors dealing with billing, we recommend a walkthrough on invoice templates.
Quality Control, Safety, and Common Mistakes
Quality control is simple but strict. Small joints leave little room for error.
Quality checks:
- Pull a 2 m level or stringline every course.
- Use a gauge rod to keep bed heights consistent.
- Maintain 2–3 mm joints; adjust with shims, not excess foam.
- Keep bricks dust-free. Brush every course.
Common mistakes:
- Laying too slow and missing the 3–5 minute open time.
- Using thick beads that over-expand and lose alignment.
- Setting on wet or frozen surfaces. Cure suffers.
- Skipping light mist in very dry air. Bond weakens.
- Working with cold cans. Flow drops and joints vary.
Safety:
- PU foam is flammable until cured. No smoking or open flames.
- Ventilate. Propellants can irritate in tight rooms.
- Wear gloves and eye protection. Foam sticks to skin.
- Store cans upright, out of direct sun, at 18–25°C.
FAQ
Is a foam brick laying system as strong as mortar?
It depends on the product and the wall type. Many systems match or exceed bond strength for non-structural walls and veneers. For load-bearing work, use only engineered systems with approvals and follow the exact details.
Can I use it in cold weather?
Often yes, but with limits. Most products work best at 5–35°C. Below 5°C, curing slows and strength can drop. Keep cans warm, shield the wall, and follow the winter guide from the manufacturer.
How soon can I drill or hang loads on the wall?
Commonly after 24–48 hours. Light drilling is fine after full cure. For heavier loads, follow the product data and any engineer’s direction. Always use proper anchors and backup framing where needed.
What masonry units are compatible?
Clay brick, concrete brick, and many lightweight blocks are typical. Always check the product list. Smooth, glazed, or very dense units may need priming or may not be approved.
What about fire rating and acoustics?
Use rated assemblies for fire separations. The foam by itself is not a fire barrier. For acoustics, thin joints help consistency, but the wall design (mass, cavity, and seals) drives STC. Follow tested assemblies.
Conclusion
A foam brick laying system that replaces mortar speeds work, cuts mess, and keeps lines tight. Plan the wall, control joint size, and move within the short open time. Check approvals for structural work, and document your method for the inspector. Next steps: 1) Pick a manufacturer and read the data sheet. 2) Train your crew for one hour with a mock-up wall. 3) Time one full lift and record can usage. When you’re ready to present the option to a client, tools like Donizo help you capture job details, send a branded proposal, and secure an e-signature fast. Use the system where it fits, and you’ll see smoother days on site.
