Intro
You hear it a lot from clients: "Not on the face please." They want clean finishes. No nail holes. No screw heads. This guide shows how to build that way without slowing down. We cover trim, floors, decks, siding, tile, and masonry. You’ll get clear steps, tool settings, and backup plans. Use this as your site playbook when you hear "Not on the face please."
Quick Answer
"Not on the face please" means hide fasteners and avoid visible holes on finished surfaces. Use blind nailing, hidden clips, pocket screws, adhesives, and back-fastening. Plan joints, set nailers correctly, and fill only when you must. Document the spec in your proposal so everyone agrees before you start.
Table of Contents
Key Takeaways
- Use blind nailing, pocket screws, and hidden clips to keep faces clean.
- Set nailers to 80–100 PSI and use 18-gauge or 23-gauge where needed.
- Leave 10–12 mm expansion gaps; hidden systems still need movement.
- Document "not on the face please" in proposals and photos before you start.
Why This Spec Matters
Clients notice faces first. Dings and filled holes stand out under light. When a client says "not on the face please," they want long-term clean lines. Less patching means fewer callbacks. It also speeds finishing. You’ll spend minutes, not hours, fixing holes later.
Common Risks
- Overdriven nails that crush fibres by 1–2 mm.
- Face screws on decking that rust in 12–24 months.
- Casing splits when you nail too close to the edge (less than 10 mm).
Trim and Casing: Hide Every Hit
This is where "not on the face please" is tested first. Aim for zero visible holes.
- 18-gauge brad nailer for most trim
- 23-gauge pinner for delicate returns
- Wood glue or construction adhesive
- 1–1/4" to 2" brads, depending on thickness
- Pocket hole jig and 1–1/4" pocket screws
Steps
- Dry fit the casing. Set a 3 mm reveal around the jamb.
- Glue mitres and returns. Pin with a 23-gauge pinner at the back only.
- Nail the casing into the jamb, not the face. Use 18-gauge at 80–100 PSI.
- If you must hit the wall stud, angle nails through the inner edge, not the visible flat.
- For wide headers, use pocket screws on the back. Clamp for 10–15 minutes while glue sets.
- Use adhesive dabs every 300–400 mm to reduce fasteners.
Pro Tip
Paint-grade? Use 23-gauge pins on returns and fill with lightweight putty. Stain-grade? Avoid fillers. Build reinforcement from the back with glue and splines. That protects "not on the face please" without risky face pins.
Flooring: Blind Nailing Basics
With floors, "not on the face please" means blind nailing through the tongue, not the face.
- Flooring nailer or stapler
- 38–50 mm cleats or staples
- Construction adhesive (optional)
- Pilot bit and 38 mm finish nails for last row
Steps
- Start with a straight first row. Use adhesive plus face nails only in the first row. Place nails where baseboard will cover, 10–12 mm from the face.
- Blind nail every 200–250 mm through the tongue at 45 degrees.
- Check pressure. Overdriving crushes the tongue by 1–2 mm.
- Stagger joints by at least 150–200 mm to avoid weak spots.
- Last row: pre-drill at a slight angle and set finish nails under the shoe moulding. No exposed faces.
When You Must Face Nail
Old floors or tight last rows sometimes need 1–2 face nails. Use tinted putty and align nails in a straight line. Keep them 12–15 mm from the edge so shoe moulding can hide them. Still, the goal is "not on the face please."
Decks and Siding: Hidden Systems
Exterior work gets judged from the curb. "Not on the face please" keeps boards clean and water out.
Hidden Fasteners for Decking
- Use grooved boards with hidden clips and 50–65 mm stainless screws.
- Keep 3–5 mm gaps between boards for drainage.
- Start and end boards: use colour-matched plugs. Drill 9–10 mm for the plug, set screw depth 5–6 mm below the surface, glue plug flush.
Siding Details
- Nail cedar and fibre-cement at the nailing hem, not the face.
- Follow 16" o.c. stud spacing and manufacturer’s clearances (often 6–8 mm above flashing).
- For corners, back-screw from the return or use concealed clips where approved.
Steps
- Plan board layout so exposed rows are clip-fastened.
- Order 5–10% extra grooved stock for cuts and mistakes.
- Use stainless hardware outdoors. Galvanized shows rust in 12–24 months.
- Seal all end cuts; water finds the smallest 1 mm crack.
Masonry and Tile: Anchors Without Scars
"Not on the face please" gets tricky on brick, stone, and tile. You still have options.
Brick and Block
- Use mortar joints, not brick faces. Drill the joint with a 6–8 mm masonry bit.
- Install plastic or lead anchors. Drive screws snug, not over-tight.
- Patch later with colour-matched mortar. The face stays untouched.
Tile and Stone
- When possible, set backing or blocking behind tile and bring fasteners through grout lines.
- If you must drill tile, use a 6 mm diamond bit, low speed, water for cooling.
- Tape the hole location to stop the bit from skating.
- For shelves and bars, consider adhesive mounts rated 10–20 kg with mechanical backup in grout lines.
Adhesives That Work
- Construction adhesive for trim: 300–400 mm spacing.
- Polymer-based tile adhesive pads: check load rating. Many hold 5–10 kg per pad on smooth tile.
- Always combine adhesive with a mechanical tie where safety matters.
Planning, Specs, and Sign-Off
"Not on the face please" should be in writing. That protects you and sets clear limits.
Steps
- Walk the site. Flag all places where face fasteners are common: baseboards, last rows, deck edges, shower walls.
- Offer options: hidden clips, plugs, blind nailing, adhesive-only with limits.
- Price the methods. Hidden systems often add 5–15% in material and 1–2 hours on a typical deck.
- Put it in the proposal with photos and notes. Get client sign-off.
- Before finishing, text or email progress photos for approval.
Tools like Donizo help here. You can speak notes on site, generate a proposal, get e-signature on the "not on the face please" spec, and convert to an invoice in one click when the client approves.
Internal Linking Ideas for Your Site
- If you’re also improving how you create professional proposals, link to your guide on professional proposals.
- This pairs well with understanding project timelines and how to protect schedules.
- For contractors dealing with billing, link to invoice templates that save time.
- Changes mid-job? Link to your change orders article so specs stay clear.
FAQ
What does "not on the face please" mean in construction?
It means no visible fasteners on the finished surface. You hide nails and screws with blind nailing, hidden clips, plugs, pocket screws, or adhesives. The goal is a clean look with no patches.
Is adhesive-only strong enough for trim and returns?
Often, yes. Use quality construction adhesive with 300–400 mm spacing. Pin from the back while it cures for 10–15 minutes. For heavy pieces, combine adhesive with hidden fasteners.
How do I avoid face screws on decks?
Use grooved boards and hidden clips with 50–65 mm stainless screws. For starts and ends, use colour-matched plugs. Keep 3–5 mm gaps and seal all end cuts.
Can I drill tile without leaving a mark?
You can minimize marks. Drill through grout lines when possible. If drilling tile, use a 6 mm diamond bit, low speed, and water. Tape the spot, and keep holes small and clean. Use caps or covers to hide hardware.
When is face nailing unavoidable?
First and last flooring rows and some deck edges sometimes need it. Hide under base, shoe moulding, or use plugs. Keep nails 12–15 mm from edges and fill neatly if exposed.
Conclusion
Clean faces win jobs. "Not on the face please" is a clear spec: hide fasteners, plan your layout, and pick the right system for each material. Next steps: 1) Walk your current site and mark all face-risk spots. 2) Update your proposal template to include hidden fastening options and pricing. 3) Get written approval with photos before you start. Platforms such as Donizo make it easy to capture notes, send a branded proposal, get e-signature, and invoice when done. Build clean. Avoid callbacks. Your finish will speak for itself.
