Intro
On most jobs, a neat, leak-free isolation point saves you headaches later. This angle sleeve stop install guide shows you how to fit an angle stop (service valve) and its trim sleeve cleanly. We cover compression, push-fit, and solder methods. You’ll see the tools, sizes, and the exact steps. Do it right, and your basin or toilet line is safe, tidy, and easy to service. If you’ve had drips at olives, mis-sized sleeves, or chewed nuts, this fixes that. Let’s make your next angle sleeve stop install fast and clean.
Quick Answer
An angle sleeve stop install is the process of fitting a right‑angle isolation valve and the wall sleeve/escutcheon on a supply stub. Shut off water, clean the pipe, fit the valve (compression, push‑fit, or solder), test to 3–5 minutes, then slide the sleeve tight to the wall. Finish with a firm, not brutal, tighten.
Table of Contents
Key Takeaways
- Use the right sizes: 15 mm (UK copper) or 1/2" nominal with 3/8" outlet.
- Finger-tight plus 1/2–3/4 turn is enough on compression nuts.
- Allow 20–40 minutes per angle sleeve stop install, including testing.
- Clean at least 20–30 mm of pipe; remove paint, solder, and burrs.
- Always pressure test for 3–5 minutes, then re-check after 10 minutes.
What Is an Angle Stop and Sleeve
An angle stop is a 90° isolation valve. In the UK, many call it a service valve or angle service valve. It usually goes on a basin, toilet, dishwasher, or tap feed. The sleeve (escutcheon/cover plate) hides the wall hole and gives a clean finish.
Typical sizes you’ll see:
- UK: 15 mm copper or 10 mm microbore to 1/2" BSP or 3/8" outlets.
- US-style: 1/2" nominal inlet (sweat, compression, push-fit) to 3/8" OD outlet.
The angle sleeve stop install joins the supply stub to the valve, seals it, and finishes the wall with a tidy sleeve. It’s simple, but small mistakes cause drips and call-backs.
Bring the right kit so you finish in one go.
- Spanners: 13 mm, 15 mm, 17 mm (common on compression), adjustable spanner.
- Pipe cutter or fine hacksaw, deburring tool.
- Emery cloth/scourer for cleaning 20–30 mm of pipe.
- PTFE tape and/or jointing compound (only where appropriate).
- Angle stop: compression, push-fit, or solder type.
- Sleeve/escutcheon: match to pipe (15 mm/1/2") and wall opening (usually 25–35 mm).
- Bucket, towels, spray bottle with soapy water.
Sizing basics:
- Inlet: 15 mm compression (UK) is standard to copper; push-fit also common on 15 mm.
- Outlet: 3/8" OD (US) or 1/2" BSP female for UK flexi tails. Check the tap’s tail first.
- Sleeve internal diameter should clear the pipe with 1–2 mm to spare. Many sleeves fit 15 mm pipe with a 25–30 mm face plate.
Prep: Shut Off, Drain, and Clean
Good prep makes the angle sleeve stop install smooth.
- Shut off the property supply. Open a low tap to relieve pressure.
- Place a bucket under the stub. Crack the old joint and drain the line.
- Remove old fittings and olives. An olive puller helps; otherwise cut the olive carefully.
- Clean the pipe. Strip paint, limescale, and old solder back 20–30 mm. Deburr inside and outside. Smooth and round wins.
- Dry-fit the sleeve. Slide it on now. You don’t want to forget it later.
Step-by-Step: Angle Sleeve Stop Install (Compression)
Compression is common, reliable, and fast. Follow these numbered steps.
- Slide components on: sleeve first, then compression nut, then olive (ring).
- Seat the valve: push the valve fully onto clean pipe until it stops.
- Finger-tighten the nut: spin it on until resistance is felt. Keep the valve square.
- Position the outlet: angle it to the flexi/tap tail path. Avoid sharp kinks.
- Tighten: hold the valve body with one spanner. With the other, turn the nut 1/2 turn. If it weeps later, add another 1/8–1/4 turn. Don’t crush the olive.
- Outlet connection: attach the 3/8" or 1/2" outlet to the flexi tail. Use the correct washer. No PTFE on compression seats. For BSP threads with sealing washers, tighten to snug plus a small tweak.
- Test: crack open the main slowly. Open the angle stop a quarter-turn, then fully. Check for drips for 3–5 minutes.
- Finish: slide the sleeve flush to the wall tile. Make sure it sits square and covers the hole.
Notes:
- Jointing compound can be used sparingly on the olive in some regions. PTFE is not needed on compression threads; they don’t seal the joint.
- If the nut binds early, back it off, re-seat the olive, and try again.
Angle Sleeve Stop Install: Push-Fit and Solder
Different jobs call for different methods. Here’s how to keep it tight and tidy.
Push-Fit
- Mark insertion depth on the pipe (typically 21–23 mm for 15 mm push-fit). Use the manufacturer’s gauge.
- Sleeve on first.
- Deburr and clean. No nicks on the pipe end.
- Push the valve on straight to the depth mark. Tug test to confirm.
- Connect the outlet and test for 3–5 minutes. Re-check after 10 minutes.
Pros: fast, no flame, good in tight spaces. Many contractors finish one angle sleeve stop install in 15–20 minutes this way.
Solder (Sweat)
Only if hot work is allowed and safe.
- Dry fit and mark depth. Sleeve on first.
- Clean and flux both pipe and valve cup.
- Heat evenly. Feed 10–15 mm of solder around the joint. Don’t overheat.
- Wipe the joint clean. Let it cool fully.
- Wash off flux. Connect the outlet. Test for 3–5 minutes, then re-check.
Pros: slim profile, permanent. Cons: needs permits, fire watch, and shields near timber or finishes.
Test, Finish, and Handover
Testing and tidy finishing prevent call-backs.
- Initial pressure test: main on slowly, angle stop open. Watch the compression joint and outlet for 3–5 minutes. Use a tissue or soapy water to spot weeps.
- Re-check: after 10 minutes, look again. A small weep often shows late.
- Tighten carefully: if it weeps, add 1/8–1/4 turn. Stop when it seals.
- Sleeve finish: slide the sleeve flush to tile or plaster. If the wall is uneven, a flexible trim plate can cover 2–3 mm gaps.
- Record details: note valve type, size (15 mm to 3/8"), method used, and test results. Photos help.
Common mistakes and fixes:
- Over‑tightening olives: causes crushed pipe and slow leaks. Fix by replacing the olive and re-cutting 10–15 mm of pipe if needed.
- Skipping pipe cleaning: leads to weeps. Always clean 20–30 mm of bright metal.
- Wrong sleeve diameter: flops or won’t pass the pipe end. Check sizes before you start.
- PTFE on compression threads: not useful. If needed, use a tiny smear of paste on the olive instead.
Handover tip: Add a service label with the install date and your contact. It takes 30 seconds and wins trust.
Admin made easy: When you finish, log the work notes and photos so the office can issue a neat proposal or invoice. Many contractors capture details with platforms such as Donizo, using Voice to Proposal, e‑signatures, and one‑click invoice management. It reduces back‑and‑forth and keeps you on site.
FAQ
What size angle stop and sleeve do I need?
For most UK copper stubs, use a 15 mm inlet valve. The outlet is either 3/8" OD (for many tap tails) or 1/2" BSP female for common flexi hoses. Pick a sleeve that fits 15 mm pipe and covers a 25–35 mm wall hole.
Do I use PTFE tape on compression fittings?
No, not on the compression threads. The olive makes the seal. If you want extra insurance, a small amount of approved jointing compound on the olive is common practice. For BSP threads with sealing washers, no tape is needed either.
How tight should I make the compression nut?
Go finger‑tight, then 1/2 turn with spanners. If you see a weep on testing, add another 1/8–1/4 turn. Don’t wrench hard from the start. Hold the valve body with a second spanner to avoid twisting the pipe.
Can I reuse the old olive?
It’s best not to. Reuse often weeps. Cut the old olive off carefully or use an olive puller. If space allows, cut back 10–15 mm and start fresh on clean pipe.
How long does an angle sleeve stop install take?
Commonly 20–40 minutes per valve, including shut‑off, fitting, and testing. Push‑fit is usually fastest. Add time if you need to repair the stub, pull an olive, or get permits for hot work.
Conclusion
A clean, reliable angle sleeve stop install comes down to simple steps: correct sizing, clean pipe, controlled tightening, and a proper test. Do those well, and leaks won’t follow you. Next steps: 1) stock 15 mm and 3/8" parts, 2) keep an olive puller and emery cloth in the bag, 3) write a short test record with photos. For smoother paperwork, tools like Donizo help you capture job details, send proposals with e‑sign, and convert to invoices fast. Build the habit today, and your call‑backs drop while your finish looks sharp.
