Intro
If you cut metal on roofs, ducts, or cladding, you know the pain. Tin snips tire your hands. Angle grinders throw sparks. The Malco TurboShear changes that. Malco TurboShear! Yes I loved it! It’s a drill-powered shear that bites cleanly through thin metal. In this guide, I’ll show you how it works on site, what it cuts well, and the small tricks that make your cuts cleaner and faster. You’ll get steps, common mistakes, and care tips you can use today.
Quick Answer
Malco TurboShear turns your drill into a fast, spark-free metal shear. It cuts typical roofing and HVAC sheet (around 0.8–1.2 mm steel) cleanly, handles tight curves, and saves time on vents and notches. With a steady drill (about 1,200–2,000 rpm) and a 10 mm (3/8 in) chuck, you’ll get smooth, controlled cuts.
Table of Contents
Key Takeaways
- Cuts thin steel around 0.8–1.2 mm and aluminium up to roughly 2.0 mm.
- Use a 10 mm (3/8 in) chuck drill at 1,200–2,000 rpm for control.
- Start-hole for inside cuts: 12–14 mm; keep 10–15 mm from edges.
- Save 5–10 minutes per vent cutout; often 30–40 minutes per day.
- Light oil every 2–3 hours of cutting extends jaw life.
Why the Malco TurboShear Delivers on Site
Angle grinders are fast, but sparks, burrs, and warping are common. Snips are safe, but slow and tiring. The Malco TurboShear sits in the sweet spot. It’s controlled, spark‑free, and quick.
- Fits most site drills with a 10 mm (3/8 in) chuck.
- Works smoothly at 1,200–2,000 rpm. You don’t need max speed.
- Leaves a narrow kerf curl, so panels stay flat and paint holds.
On most jobs, you’ll cut 200–400 mm at a time with no fuss. Vents, notches, and drip-edge trims become simple, even on a ladder.
Malco TurboShear! Yes I Loved It: Field Results
I tested Malco TurboShear on common site tasks. Malco TurboShear! Yes I loved it! Here’s what stood out.
Roof patch on corrugated steel
- Marked a 100 mm x 150 mm opening.
- Drilled a 12 mm start hole, then followed the line.
- Total cut time: about 90 seconds. No paint scorch, minimal burr.
HVAC take‑off in 1.0 mm galvanised sheet
- Cut a 125 mm round hole from a 14 mm start hole.
- Clean radius, no wrinkling. Slight curl offcut, easy to bin.
- Saved 6–8 minutes versus snips.
Cladding notch at soffit
- 30 mm x 80 mm notch, 15 mm from panel edge.
- Straight, flush fit. No rework needed.
In short, Malco TurboShear! Yes I loved it because it handled straight lines and tight curves without chewing the sheet.
Setup and Cutting Steps
Follow these steps for clean, safe cuts. Malco TurboShear! Yes I loved it when I followed this routine.
- Check your drill
- Use a 10 mm (3/8 in) chuck and a steady trigger.
- Target 1,200–2,000 rpm for control.
- Mount the TurboShear
- Seat it fully in the chuck. Tighten all three jaws.
- Align the head so waste curls away from you.
- Mark the cut
- Use a fine marker and a straightedge. For inside cuts, drill a 12–14 mm start hole.
- Support the sheet
- Clamp or hold with a partner. Keep 10–15 mm edge clearance to prevent bending.
- Begin cutting
- Start slow. Keep the lower jaw flat on the sheet.
- Let the shear pull. Don’t twist the drill.
- Follow curves in passes
- For tight radii (75–100 mm), ease in with 2–3 small passes.
- Deburr lightly
- A quick file or 120‑grit pad removes any small burr.
- Oil and check
- One drop of light oil on the jaws after 2–3 hours of cutting keeps it smooth.
Time needed: Straight 300 mm cut in 1.0 mm steel takes about 20–30 seconds once you’re set up.
Cuts You Can Trust: Thickness, Curves, and Edges
Tool models vary, so always check your model’s spec. In general:
- Galvanised steel: Works well around 0.8–1.2 mm.
- Aluminium: Often fine up to about 2.0 mm.
- Stainless: Keep it light, roughly 0.6–0.8 mm.
- Curves: Handles 75–100 mm radius with a steady hand.
- Edge cuts: Keep 10–15 mm from edge to avoid puckering.
For long straights (over 600 mm), snap a chalk line and keep the lower jaw on the clean side of the mark. For small circles (100–150 mm), drill a 12–14 mm start hole and spiral out to your line.
If you’re also looking to streamline professional proposals, our guide on creating professional proposals pairs well with these cutting workflows. And for clear paperwork after the install, see our tips on invoice templates that save time.
Mistakes to Avoid and Easy Fixes
- Pushing too hard
- Sign: Ragged edge and jaw chatter.
- Fix: Ease off. Let the shear bite. Increase rpm slightly.
- Twisting the drill mid‑cut
- Sign: Wavy line and panel warping.
- Fix: Keep wrists neutral. Move your body, not just your hands.
- Starting too close to the edge
- Sign: Bends or tears near the edge.
- Fix: Stay 10–15 mm in from edges. Use a start hole.
- Cutting thick stainless like mild steel
- Sign: Slow bite, heat, and jaw wear.
- Fix: Reduce thickness. Take two passes. Cool between cuts.
- Skipping oil and checks
- Sign: Early jaw wear and rough kerf.
- Fix: One drop of light oil every 2–3 hours. Tighten chuck often.
This pairs well with understanding change orders done right when scope shifts mid‑install. Write it clearly, price it fairly, and avoid freebies.
Care, Blades, and Longevity
Treat the Malco TurboShear like any precision jaw tool.
- Daily wipe‑down: Remove swarf. A clean rag and a touch of oil.
- Jaw alignment: If cuts drift, check fasteners and realign the head.
- Light oil: One drop on sliding faces after 2–3 hours.
- Storage: Keep it in a pouch. Don’t toss it in with spanners.
- Replacement jaws: When you see crushed kerf or heavy burr, it’s time.
Most contractors report months of typical use before replacing jaws when cutting 0.8–1.0 mm steel a few times per week. Heavy stainless work shortens that. Rotate tasks and let the tool cool if it warms up.
Faster Closeout: Photos, Proposals, and E‑Signatures
The Malco TurboShear speeds the install. Tighten up the paperwork too. On site, snap 2–3 photos of your cuts and patch details. Record measurements like 100 mm x 150 mm openings and 12–14 mm start holes.
If you want fewer late nights typing, tools like Donizo help you capture details with Voice to Proposal, send a branded PDF, and get an e‑signature fast. After sign‑off, convert to an invoice in one click. That pairs nicely with the field time you’ve already saved.
FAQ
What drill works best with a Malco TurboShear?
Use a corded or cordless drill with a 10 mm (3/8 in) chuck and a smooth trigger. Aim for 1,200–2,000 rpm for control. Hammer mode off. A side handle helps on longer cuts.
What thickness can it cut?
It depends on the model. In general, it handles galvanised steel around 0.8–1.2 mm, aluminium up to roughly 2.0 mm, and lighter stainless around 0.6–0.8 mm. Always check your model’s rating.
Does it damage the paint or coating?
Not usually. Cuts are cool and spark‑free. Keep the lower jaw flat and don’t twist. A light deburr with a file or pad leaves a neat edge that holds paint.
How do I cut a small round vent?
Drill a 12–14 mm start hole. Enter with the TurboShear and spiral out to your line. Take two passes for a clean 100–150 mm circle. Don’t force the tool—let it bite.
How long do the jaws last?
With light oil every 2–3 hours and proper alignment, contractors often get months of typical use on 0.8–1.0 mm steel. Replace when you see crushing, heavy burr, or drift in the cut.
Conclusion
Malco TurboShear! Yes I loved it because it cuts fast, clean, and safe. It shines on vents, notches, and long straights without sparks or sore hands. Next steps: 1) Set your drill to 1,200–2,000 rpm, 2) Practise a 100 mm circle with a 12–14 mm start hole, 3) Oil the jaws after 2–3 hours.
To lock in the time savings, consider platforms such as Donizo for voice capture, instant proposals, e‑signs, and quick invoices. Use your tools well, keep your cuts clean, and finish the day ahead of schedule.