Intro
On most jobs, plumbing work decides if a build runs smooth or stalls. Done right, water flows, drains clear, and clients smile. Done wrong, you chase leaks and blockages for weeks. This guide breaks plumbing work into clear steps: plan, rough-in, test, and finish. You’ll see key numbers, timelines, and common traps. We keep it simple, like you’d explain it on site. Follow this, and your plumbing work gets faster, cleaner, and more profitable.
Quick Answer
Plumbing work means planning, rough-in, testing, and finish. Mark routes, size pipes, and keep correct falls. Pressure test at 1.5× working pressure for 30–60 minutes. Set water at 50–60°C, purge air, and check every joint. Document scope, show exclusions, and get sign-off before changes.
Table of Contents
Key Takeaways
- Size and falls first: 22 mm mains, 15 mm branches, 1:40–1:80 falls.
- Test hard: 1.5× working pressure held for 30–60 minutes.
- Think time: small house rough-in takes 1–2 days with two fitters.
- Finish hot: set hot water to 50–60°C and purge all air.
- Document scope and changes to cut call-backs by half.
Plan Your Plumbing Work
Good plumbing work starts on paper. Walk the site with the drawings. Mark every fixture, route, and penetration. Keep hot on the left, cold on the right. Plan the plant wall like a Tetris board. Leave 300–600 mm clear in front of valves and filters.
- Map mains route. Minimise bends. Every 90° adds loss.
- Size early. Use 22 mm for mains runs, 15 mm for most branches.
- For long runs over 15 m, consider 28 mm mains to keep flow.
- Keep pipes inside heated space. If not, insulate at least 13 mm.
- Mark falls for waste: aim 1:40 to 1:80 (25–12.5 mm per metre).
Tip: Photograph walls and floors before cover-up. Add a tape measure in shots. Future you will thank you.
Rough-In Plumbing Work: Step-By-Step
Here’s a clean sequence most crews follow. Adjust to suit your site.
- Mark centres for basins, WCs, showers, and kitchen points.
- Drill and notch carefully. Keep at least 50 mm from edges.
- Fix pipe clips. For copper, space clips 1.2–1.8 m apart.
- Run cold mains first, then hot. Keep 100–150 mm separation.
- Install isolation valves at every branch take-off.
- Set wastes with correct fall. Avoid backfalls. Test with a level.
- Fit first-fix valves, stubs, and stops. Cap all open ends.
- Pressure test before closing walls. Fix leaks now, not later.
Allow time for solvent cement. Most need 15 minutes to handle, 24 hours for full cure. Don’t rush this step.
Pressure, Flow, and Testing
Water pressure on many sites sits around 2–4 bar. Design for that range. Test above it.
- Pressure test at 1.5× your working pressure (commonly 6 bar). Hold 30–60 minutes.
- If pressure drops, find the joint. Dry, remake, retest.
- Flow targets: showers like 6–9 litres per minute. Big rain heads may need more.
- Hot water storage should run 50–60°C. That’s hot enough without scalding.
- Expansion: leave 10 mm allowance around cylinders and fit expansion vessels.
How to test quickly:
- Isolate fixtures. Cap outlets tight.
- Fill the system slowly. Bleed air at high points.
- Pump to test pressure. Log start time and reading.
- Inspect every joint with dry tissue. Look for weeps.
- Hold for 30–60 minutes. Record final reading.
Document results. A simple photo of the gauge with a time note works.
Drainage, Venting, and Falls
Most call-backs come from drainage, not water feeds. Get this right.
- Set a steady fall: 1:40 to 1:80. Too flat and it blocks. Too steep and water outruns solids.
- For 110 mm soil, many fitters aim near 1:40.
- Use long radius bends. Two 45° beats a tight 90°.
- Vent the stack to stop siphon. Studor-type AAVs help but still plan a proper vent.
- Keep trap seals: 50 mm water seal is standard. Don’t suck them dry.
- Test with a 50 mm head of water for 5–10 minutes, or do a smoke test.
Noise matters. Clip and isolate pipes. Avoid pipes touching studs. A 3 mm foam wrap can stop knocks and creaks.
Finishing, Commissioning, and Handover
Finish work makes or breaks the job. Slow down a little here.
- Fit second-fix ware square and level. Check with a small level.
- Flush lines before final connection. Debris kills cartridges and valves.
- Balance systems. For recirculation, target 55°C supply and 50°C return.
- Set TMVs to 43–46°C at outlets where needed.
- Purge air. Open highest points first, then work down.
- Check every joint under live load. Run showers for 2–3 minutes.
Commissioning usually takes 1–2 hours for a small house. Leave a simple O&M pack: model numbers, filter change dates, shut-off locations, and your warranty terms.
Pricing, Proposals, and Paperwork
Strong paperwork keeps plumbing work profitable.
- Define scope: list every fixture, valve, and connection.
- Show exclusions: tile drilling, access panels, asbestos, and making good.
- Include PC sums for client-supplied ware. Note lead times.
- Set hourly daywork rates and minimum call-out time (often 1 hour).
- Ask for sign-off at rough-in, pre-tiling, and final.
On site, details change. Capture them. Tools like Donizo let you speak notes, attach photos, and turn them into branded proposals. Clients can e-sign, and you can convert accepted work into invoices in one click. That cuts the back-and-forth and shortens payment time.
Internal link ideas to help readers:
- If you’re also looking to streamline professional proposals, our guide covers proven formats.
- This pairs well with understanding project timelines so plumbing fits other trades.
- For contractors dealing with late payments, we recommend invoice templates that speed approval.
- Pricing complex jobs? See our advice on pricing strategies for mixed labour and materials.
FAQ
How long does typical rough-in plumbing work take?
For a small three-bed house, many crews finish rough-in in 1–2 days with two fitters. Add time for complex manifolds, long runs, or tight plant rooms. Always test before closing walls.
What pressure should I test at and for how long?
Test at 1.5× your working pressure. Many contractors use 6 bar. Hold for 30–60 minutes. If the gauge drops, find the leak, fix it, and restart the clock. Record start and end readings.
What pipe sizes work for most homes?
A common setup is 22 mm for the main feed and 15 mm for most branches. For long runs over 15 m or multiple bathrooms, consider 28 mm mains to keep flow and avoid pressure dips during peak use.
What fall should I use on waste and soil pipes?
Aim for 1:40 to 1:80. That’s roughly 25–12.5 mm per metre. For 110 mm soil, many fitters stick close to 1:40. Keep falls even, avoid backfalls, and use long radius bends.
When should I use PTFE tape vs jointing compound?
PTFE tape suits threaded joints. Wrap 6–10 turns, clockwise. Paste or compound helps on metal threads or where extra sealing is needed. Don’t mix with compression olives unless specified. Always follow the fitting’s instructions.
Conclusion
Plumbing work runs best with clear plans, correct sizing, firm testing, and tidy finishes. Stick to the key numbers, document changes, and get staged sign-offs. That keeps quality high and call-backs low.
Next steps:
- Walk your next job and mark routes and falls today.
- Set a standard pressure-test form and photo routine.
- Use platforms such as Donizo to capture scope, send proposals, get e-signatures, and invoice faster.
Do the basics well every time. The rest gets easier, job after job.