Introduction
You’ve seen it a hundred times: soft window trim, mushy sills, peeling paint that hides a bigger problem. Rot isn’t just ugly—it tells you water is winning. This guide gives you a clear, repeatable process to diagnose where water’s getting in, choose the right repair (epoxy, scarf, or replace), and detail it so you don’t revisit the same house next season. We’ll cover tools, materials, flashing that actually works, pricing, proposal language that sets expectations, and a clean step-by-step you can hand to your crew. Let’s stop treating symptoms and fix the cause.
Table of Contents
Key Takeaways
- In general, most exterior rot starts at end grain and flat, unflashed surfaces—fix the water path or the repair won’t last.
- A practical rule: if more than about one-third of the member’s thickness is compromised, replacement or a scarf repair beats epoxy.
- Flashing and drip details make or break durability; don’t rely on caulk alone to stop bulk water.
- Prime all cuts “six sides,” use stainless or hot-dip galvanized fasteners, and add drip kerfs to shed water.
- Clear proposals with photos and acceptance steps reduce back-and-forth and help you get to “yes” faster.
Diagnose the Rot: Find the Water Path
Rot isn’t random. It follows water.
Common Sources You’ll Actually Find
- End grain exposed at trim bottoms and cut ends
- Missing or flat head flashing above windows/doors
- Horizontal surfaces without drip kerfs (sills, cap trims)
- Caulk bridging water paths (sealed bottom edges that trap water)
- Cracked paint at joints, especially where two materials meet (wood to masonry)
In general, contractors report that 60–80% of rot on window/door trims traces back to absent or poorly installed flashing and exposed end grain. Don’t start cutting until you know where the water is entering and how it’s supposed to exit.
- Awl and trim puller to probe and lift gently
- Moisture meter (pin type) for comparative readings
- Flashlight and inspection mirror for head flashings and pans
- Level to spot flat sills and reverse slopes
Field Example
South elevation, painted pine brickmould: paint peeling at the lower 12 inches, soft at the miter, no head flashing visible under the siding. Bottom edge is fully caulked to the sill. Solution path: open the joint, confirm moisture at miter, plan new head flashing with end dams, add drip kerf to sill, and stop caulking the bottom edge so water can drain.
Choose the Repair: Patch, Scarf, or Replace
Your choice depends on extent, structure, and access.
Decision Rules That Work On Site
- Minor, localized decay (surface to shallow): epoxy consolidate/fill after drying—and only if you also fix the water path.
- Sectional loss beyond about one-third thickness or deep into fastener zones: scarf in new wood or replace the member.
- Structural or safety items (stringers, bearing trims, door thresholds): replace, don’t patch.
Commonly, epoxy-only fixes fail within a season or two when the water source isn’t addressed.
Repair Options at a Glance
| Option | When It Fits | Pros | Cons |
|---|
| Epoxy consolidate/fill | Small, contained decay where load is low | Minimal demo; keeps profiles | Cure time; needs dry substrate; can mask ongoing moisture |
| Scarf repair (new wood section) | Up to half-length damage | Strong; wood-to-wood; paint blends | Joinery skill; flashing still required |
| Full member replacement | Extensive or structural decay | Fresh start; easy to flash correctly | More time/material; paint blend area larger |
| PVC/engineered trim swap | High exposure zones |
Quick Cost/Time Reality Check
In general, crews find that scarf repairs on brickmoulds take 1.5–3 hours per opening (plus finish), while full replacement of head and legs runs 3–5 hours, depending on access and paint blending.
Control Water: Flashing and Detailing That Last
If you don’t add a path for water to leave, rot returns.
Flashing Hierarchy
- Head flashing with end dams tucked under WRB or cladding
- Sill pan or back dam (liquid-applied or formed) to stop interior migration
- Kick-out flashing where roofs die into walls
Commonly, trim repairs done without proper head flashing see recurring issues within 1–3 seasons, especially on wind-driven rain elevations.
Caulk Strategy (Stop Sealing Traps)
- Do: Seal vertical joints and top edges; use backer rod where gaps exceed about 1/4 inch
- Don’t: Seal the bottom edge of horizontal trims or sills—leave a weep path
- Choose high-quality sealants compatible with paint and substrate; tool joints to shed water
Drip Details That Save Callbacks
- Add a drip kerf under sills and horizontal caps, about 3/8 inch back from the edge and 1/8 inch deep
- Slight positive slope on caps and sills (at least 3–5 degrees) to encourage shedding
Materials and Methods That Don’t Come Back to Bite You
Wood and Alternatives
- Durable species or treated stock for high-splash zones; finger-jointed primed pine is fine only with robust detailing
- PVC or engineered trims where repeated wetting is inevitable; allow for expansion and use appropriate adhesives/fasteners
In general, stainless fasteners outlast electro-galvanized by two to three times in coastal or high-exposure locations.
Adhesives, Consolidants, and Fillers
- Two-part epoxy consolidants for punky fibers (apply to dry wood; follow with filler while tacky for best bond)
- Exterior-rated fillers shaped slightly proud; sand after cure
- Construction adhesives rated for wet service when laminating or scarfing
Prime and Paint Like You Mean It
- Prime all cuts and routed kerfs—“six sides” including field bores
- Back-prime replacement pieces before install; spot-prime fastener heads
- Expect 1 primer coat plus 2 finish coats to blend repairs; many contractors find blending into a corner or natural break reduces visible sheen differences
Pricing, Proposal, and Client Expectations
You’re not just fixing wood—you’re selling water management and longevity.
How to Build a Clean Estimate
- Diagnose: Note water source and required flashing/cap details
- Scope: Line items for demo, repair type (epoxy/scarf/replace), flashing, caulking, prime/paint blend, and access setup
- Allowances: Hidden damage allowance per opening (e.g., “up to X hours/materials with client approval for more”)
- Finish: Clarify paint blend area (whole component vs. spot); explain sheen matching realities
- Scheduling: Weather windows for primers/paints and epoxy cure times
In general, contractors who include a clear hidden-damage allowance reduce approval delays and change-order friction significantly.
Proposal Language That Prevents Disputes
- “We will add head flashing with end dams and a drip kerf under the sill. Bottom edges will not be caulked to allow drainage.”
- “Rot repairs are contingent on dry substrate; heaters/fans may be used to reach acceptable moisture before epoxy or paint.”
Speed It Up With Donizo
Capture the site story while you’re still there. Use Donizo to speak the scope, snap photos, and generate a professional proposal fast. Many contractors find that same-day proposals with e-sign reduce decision lag by about 30–50% in practice. With Donizo you can:
- Talk-to-text with photos to build the proposal on site
- Send a branded PDF with client portal access (paid plans remove watermarks)
- Get a legally binding e-signature
- Convert accepted proposals to invoices in one click and track payments (paid plans)
- On Autopilot, use advanced templates and a margin estimator to price consistently
Execution: Step-by-Step Field Process
1. Prep and Safety
- Set protection below work area; control chips and dust
- If the home predates 1978, follow your local lead-safe requirements for disturbance and cleanup
- Verify weather window for primers/sealants
2. Open and Dry
- Remove failed trim or decayed sections; preserve substrates
- Vent and dry the area; in general, aim for wood moisture closer to ambient norms before epoxy (contractors often target below the teens on a pin meter for reliable bonds)
3. Treat or Replace
- For minor decay: epoxy consolidate, then fill; sand to profile
- For larger decay: cut back to sound wood; make a scarf at 8:1 or better; bond and fasten
- For full replacement: pre-prime “six sides,” dry-fit, then install
4. Flash and Detail
- Install head flashing with end dams; integrate properly with cladding/WRB
- Add sill pan/back dam where practical
- Route a drip kerf; set positive slope on horizontals
5. Seal and Finish
- Caulk vertical/top joints, leave bottom edges unsealed
- Prime bare wood and epoxy; finish with two coats for blend
- Final check for weeps and slopes
Realistic Timeframes
- Small brickmould scarf: 2–3 hours plus paint time
- Full head-and-legs replacement with flashing: 4–6 hours per opening
- Epoxy patch (drying and cure dependent): can span two visits if substrates start wet
In general, planning paint and cure times around weather saves a return trip; many contractors schedule wet-season exterior repairs as two-stage visits by design.
Frequently Asked Questions
When should I choose epoxy over replacing the trim?
Use epoxy when decay is localized, the piece isn’t structural, and you can dry the substrate. If decay exceeds roughly one-third of the thickness or fastener zones are compromised, a scarf or full replacement is more reliable. Always fix the water source first, or any epoxy work is temporary.
Do I need to replace the whole window if the brickmould is rotten?
Usually not. If the window frame is sound and you add proper head flashing, a brickmould replacement or scarf repair is sufficient. Inspect the sill and frame corners with a probe and moisture meter before deciding.
How dry does the wood need to be for epoxy and paint?
Aim for substrates that are near normal ambient moisture for the season. Many contractors target readings in the low to mid-teens on a pin meter before consolidating or painting. If it’s wetter, dry with fans, gentle heat, or wait for a better weather window.
Can I just caulk everything to keep water out?
No. Caulk the top and vertical joints, but leave the bottom edges of sills and horizontal trims unsealed so water can drain. Add drip kerfs and maintain positive slopes. Caulked bottom edges often trap water and accelerate rot.
What’s a reasonable warranty for rot repairs?
Offer a workmanship warranty tied to the specific repair and water-management details you installed (flashing, drip kerf). Exclude new leaks from unrelated building elements. Many contractors set 12–24 months for workmanship on repairs, with clear maintenance responsibilities noted for the client.
Conclusion
Exterior rot repairs stick when you fix the cause—water paths—not just the wood. Diagnose first, choose the right repair (epoxy, scarf, or replace), and install flashing and drip details so the assembly dries out on the next storm, not rots again.
Want to move faster without losing clarity? Capture the scope by voice with photos in Donizo, send a branded PDF, collect a legally binding e-signature, and convert to an invoice in one click. That’s hours saved each week and fewer “can you resend that?” emails—so you can get back on the ladder and off the laptop.
