Intro

When you renovate house with a cheap contractor, things can go sideways fast. The price looks great. Then the extras start. Delays pile up. Quality slips. In this guide, I’ll break down what usually goes wrong, why it happens, and how to protect your money and time. You’ll get simple checks, clear steps, and real numbers. Use this before you sign anything. It’s straight talk you can use on your next job.

Quick Answer

Going with the cheapest bid often means thin scope, weak materials, and unpaid extras later. Expect cut corners, delays of 2–6 weeks, and surprise change orders. Vet the bid, lock the scope in writing, set milestone payments, and require permits, inspections, and a written warranty before work begins.

Table of Contents

• Key Takeaways
• The Real Cost When You Renovate With a Cheap Contractor
• Red Flags In Low Bids You Shouldn’t Ignore
• How to Vet Low Bids in 7 Steps
• Write It Down or Pay Twice
• Quality Checks That Save You Later
• When to Walk Away

Key Takeaways

• If one bid is 20–30% lower, scope is likely missing.
• Get 3–4 bids on the same specs. Compare apples to apples.
• Hold 10% retention until punch list is complete.
• Plan a 10–15% contingency for hidden conditions.
• Change orders must be priced and signed before work.

The Real Cost When You Renovate With a Cheap Contractor

On most jobs, the lowest number looks good on day one. The pain comes on day thirty. When you renovate house with a cheap contractor, the scope is often thin. Materials are downgraded. Labor is rushed. You pay later with fixes.

Here’s a common pattern:

• Day 1–3: Fast start, light demo.
• Week 2: “We didn’t include that.” First change order appears.
• Week 4: Schedule slips 10–14 days. Subs don’t show.
• Week 6: Finish quality is shaky. Touch-ups stack up.

A $38,000 “deal” can end up at $45,000 after 4–6 change orders. You also lose 3–4 weeks. That’s the real cost.

Red Flags In Low Bids You Shouldn’t Ignore

Cheap bids leave clues. Look for these:

1. Vague scope lines like “tile bathroom” with no square footage. You need numbers: 120 sq ft, 3/16" joints, thinset type.
2. Low allowances. $2/sq ft tile won’t match a $5/sq ft sample. You’ll pay the gap.
3. “Cash price” or no permits. No permits means no inspections. You carry the risk.
4. Short timelines. A full bathroom in 5 days? Realistic is 10–14 days including cure times.
5. No warranty in writing. You want at least 1 year on labor.
6. Missing insurance and license. Ask for COI and license number. Verify them.

When you renovate house with a cheap contractor, these red flags show up early. Don’t ignore them.

How to Vet Low Bids in 7 Steps

Do these before you sign. It’s simple and saves money.

1. Define the scope clearly.
   • List rooms, square footage, and finishes.
   • Example: “2x6 framing, R-21 insulation, 5/8" Type X drywall.”
2. Request 3–4 comparable bids.
   • Same scope, same specs, same brands.
   • If one bid is 25% lower, ask why. Get it in writing.
3. Check references.
   • Call 3 references: 2 recent (last 6 months), 1 older (12–24 months). Ask about schedule, budget, and callbacks.
4. Verify paperwork.
   • License, insurance, permits, lien waivers. Get copies before work.
5. Review schedule by phases.
   • Demo: 2–3 days; Rough-in: 3–5 days; Inspections: 1–2 days; Finish: 5–7 days. Slips happen, but the plan should be real.
6. Confirm materials.
   • Brands, models, thicknesses, and counts. Example: “12/2 NM-B copper wire,” “3/4" plywood subfloor,” “1/2" cement board.”
7. Lock a payment plan.
   • Deposit 10–20%, then progress draws at milestones (framing, rough-in, finish), 10% retention at the end.

When you renovate house with a cheap contractor, this 7-step check keeps control in your hands.

Write It Down or Pay Twice

Most contractors skip full paperwork. Don’t make that mistake. A thin proposal is how “extras” appear.

• Scope of work: Every task listed. No fuzzy lines.
• Drawings/photos: Mark exact locations and sizes.
• Allowances: Put real numbers. Tile at $5/sq ft, vanity at $800.
• Change orders: Priced and signed before work starts. No verbal approvals.
• Milestone payments: Tie to inspections and photos.

Tools like Donizo help you capture voice notes, photos, and specs, turn them into a clean proposal, send a branded PDF, collect e-signatures, and convert to an invoice in one click. That kills scope confusion and keeps everyone honest.

If you’re also looking to streamline professional proposals, or to set clear project timelines, make those standard on every job.

Quality Checks That Save You Later

Set checkpoints. They take 15–30 minutes and prevent rework.

• Framing: Stud spacing at 16" on center, walls plumb within 1/8" over 6'.
• Electrical: Correct breaker sizes, GFCI where required, neat panel labeling.
• Plumbing: 10-minute pressure test at 80 psi before close-up.
• Tile: Substrate flat within 1/8" over 10', lippage under 1/16".
• Painting: 2 coats after proper prime; 3–5 mil wet film thickness per coat.
• HVAC: Ducts sealed with mastic; filters replaced at turnover.

When you renovate house with a cheap contractor, confirm these checks. Problems found late cost 2–3 times more to fix.

When to Walk Away

Sometimes the best move is to pass.

• The contractor won’t pull permits or show insurance.
• The schedule is “trust me,” no phase dates.
• The bid skips demo, disposal, or clean-up.
• The payment plan asks 50% down before mobilizing.
• Pushback on written change orders or warranty.

If 3–4 of these appear, walk. Waiting 2 weeks for the right crew is cheaper than fixing a rushed job for 6–8 weeks later. When you renovate house with a cheap contractor, walking can be the money-saving choice.

FAQ

How much lower is too low for a renovation bid?

If one bid is 20–30% under the pack, it often means missing scope, weaker materials, or unpaid labor. Ask for a line-by-line scope match. If it stays far lower, pass.

What payment schedule protects me best?

Start with 10–20% to book the job. Tie the next 3 draws to milestones (framing, rough-in, finishes). Hold 10% retention until the punch list is complete and the final inspection passes.

Do I really need permits for interior work?

If it affects structure, electrical, plumbing, or HVAC, you usually do. Permits trigger inspections, which protect you. No permits can delay resale and cause costly tear-outs later.

How do I control change orders?

Write a clear scope, set real allowances, and require priced, signed change orders before work continues. No signatures, no changes. Take photos and keep a running log.

What warranty should I expect?

A 1-year labor warranty is common. Some trades offer longer on parts. Get it in writing with start and end dates and what’s included.

Conclusion

Cheapest rarely means best. When you renovate house with a cheap contractor, the real cost shows up in delays, add-ons, and rework. Protect yourself with a tight scope, real allowances, milestone payments, and strict change orders. Next steps: 1) Write specs and allowances, 2) Get 3–4 comparable bids, 3) Set milestones and retention. Platforms such as Donizo make proposals, e-signatures, and invoicing fast and clear, so you control scope and cash flow. Do the basics well, and every project runs smoother.